Far from the Madding Crowd

The Rif Mountains

Tétouan falls into that strange category know as a Transfer City. These are places that travelers transfer through, bound for other destinations. In the case of Tétouan, that somewhere else is the tourist route between Tangier and Chechaouen. Folks arrive in Tangier, spend one night, then board the bus for the trip over the Rif Mountains to the blue-tinted town of Chechaouen. Nestled at the foot of the Rif, Tétouan is overlooked by most travelers. Their loss is my gain.

Thanks to publications like Lonely Planet and Rough Guides, there are now clearly established tourist routes where once there were little-known regions. Once upon a time, these routes were actually lonely and rough, the off-beat paths of backpack-toting sojourners. But times have changed. If a place is listed in the Lonely Planet guide, it is not going to be lonely. This is true across the globe, in South American, Southeast Asia, and even in North Africa. Stray but a little, however, off this well-documented pathway, and there remain quiet enclaves. By way of example, I remember one provincial town in Thailand, a town that will here go unnamed. Lonely Planet gave it a pass, excluding it from the tourist path. The two days I spent there were fabulous. There were very few Farrang, a fabulous market, and a great window on Thai culture. The same was true in the Mekong Delta region of Vietnam. Straying even twenty kilometers to either side of the well-worn route brought great rewards in the form of quiet villages, easy accommodations, and authentic markets not geared toward the tourist trade.  

Tétouan sits in a river valley at the base of the Rif Mountains. From a rooftop in the Medina, one can see the Mediterranean to the north. The valley is dotted with small whitewashed villages, as are the foothills of the Rif. The town seems prosperous, with a busy modern center. Modern by Moroccan standards at any rate. There is an ancient fortress on the hill above the Medina, and the King of Morocco's summer palace at the foot of the hill. The modern town is a mix of colonial architecture, shop buildings, and blocky apartments. 

 French Colonial buildings in the Modern City 

This is a busy, bustling city. It is busy by day, and it is busy by night. As in Tangier, folks love to walk about in the evening, gathering in the shopping district, the cafés, or the public squares. Kids chase balls, parents push strollers, couples try to steal a bit of private time out of sight of their elders. Evenings in Tétouan are altogether enjoyable, whether strolling with the crowds in the modern city, or getting lost in the eerie tangle of the darkened Medina.

One of the Many Gates to the Medina

While the modern city has its charms, particularly the great cafés and restaurants, the star of the show is the Medina. The entire labyrinth is walled. One enters the maze through one of many arched gates. It is a very good idea to remember the location of at least some of the gates. This will come in handy when you get lost, and get lost you will. The Medina of Tétouan is one of the best preserved in all of Morocco. While one will see a few tourists, the Medina does not exist for them. This is a living, breathing space,  inhabited and used by the local folk. To be sure, there are a few markets in the Medina that cater to the tourist trade. But the majority of the tiny stalls and shops are dedicated the needs of Moroccans. 

 

 Night in the Medina 

To wander the Median at night is to enter an entirely new world, or a very old world. Some of the passageways are busy with folks running their evening errands. Bakeries the size of small closets are crowded with folks buying their breads and treats for dinner and tomorrow's breakfast. Half-hidden cafés give off the smell of mint tea and the voices of the men inside. There is the click of die, as unseen hands move tiles across traditional Parcheesi boards.

The landmarks that one established in the daytime Medina have all changed. Shops that were closed are open, those that were open closed. Light and shadow play across the intersections of narrow walkways. Covered passages are eerie, echoing with footsteps. We became completely lost, twice turned around, and thrice befuddled. It was wonderful. Evening in the Medina is eerie, and a bit spooky at times, but it is not scary. I do not mean to give the wrong impression. I never felt afraid, or hesitated to turn up this or that passageway. Otherworldly, yes. Scary, no. 

Busy Shoppers in the Medina

 

 Nightfall Looking Toward the Sea

The Whitewashed Medina Behind a Public Square

Back in the modern town, thoughts turn to food. The traditional food of Morocco does not disappoint. In the north, there is a strong fusion of Moroccan, Spanish, and French cuisine. Paella is as common as couscous. Tangine, the Moroccan stew served in clay-ware, is always on the menu, and olives accompany every meal.

The Bane of the Gluten-Free Folks

Breakfast is all about baked goods. Roti, corn cakes, and savory rolls make up a traditional breakfast. There is butter, marmalade, and soft cheese to smear on ones yummy breadstuff. And, or course, olives. Coffee is good here in Morocco.The thick, black espresso is delivered to your table, while the waiter stands by to pour the hot Au Lait from his silver pitcher.

Stewed Chicken, paella, chopped salad, and fried fish make up a traditional meal in the north. There is always a basket of bread, as well as a saucer of some hot stew to dip into. Order all of the food you want. Diner for two rarely cost more than 120 dirham, or about thirteen dollars. We often ate for much less. 

 Tangine, the Traditional Moroccan Stew

I love this town. Whether wandering in the heat of the day, or exploring at night, there is always some new thing to discover. If you are taken with hiking, there are trails in the Rif. The seaside is a short daytrip away. The modern city is a shoppers paradise, especially if one has small feet. My big feet prevented any great shoe bargains. The Medina is a maze of delight, a place that invites slow and thoughtful strolling. People smile and nod as you pass. Folks here are friendly and warm. 

 Color in the Medina

An Open market Space at the Gloaming

 

The Rif

Three nights passed quickly, and we did not begrudge a single one of them. This Transfer Town, this place that people pass by, it suited me perfectly. Not everything was perfect, to be sure. Sleeping in any old city can be a challenge, whether Napoli or Tétouan. Stone walls and narrow passages magnify every sound. The Call to Prayer echos through the early morning before the sun rises. But that is why they invented earplugs. Don't leave home without them. 

Stray off the path. Take a chance on a town that others pass by. Of course, it does not always go this way. Sometimes people have good reason not to stop. But Tétouan is not one of those places. It is charming, vibrant, beautiful, and very fun. I am still not going to tell you the name of the town in Thailand, but I suppose I have let the cat out of the bag on Tétouan. My bad.

So here is to over-looked towns, paths less traveled, and a tip o' the Rev Lid to Lonely Planet for steering folks in another direction. From Northern Morocco, it is time to say "Ciao for Now!"