Northwest Greek Odyssey -- Ioannina

Ioannina, Greece

Sometimes the guide books grant a favor to a poor traveler. Most of the time, it is a favor granted inadvertently. When some hugely popular guidebook series (not naming names, title has the initials LP) claims that this or that local city is "a transportation hub, not really worthy of an overnight stay..." reader take note. It is possible that the guidebook is correct, as is the case with Udon Thani. UT is a busy, dusty town in Isaan, the rural region of Northeast Thailand, and not much happening there. On the other hand, I have discovered some of my favorite small cities by making careful note of the phrase "Just another provincial city... blah blah blah." 

"What in God's holy name are you blathering about?" Sorry. I'm blathering about our next destination, Ioannina, Greece. Yes, just a provincial city, set on a big lake, a transportation hub, most people give it a pass.  Good for them, off they go, bye-bye.

Parma Cave and a Cute Grrl

We had the grand countryside tour from Meteora to Ioannina. The bus wiggled and squiggled through back roads, climbed hairpins, and generally spent an hour aimed at taunting those prone to motion sickness. The slow first hour was followed by a quicker second hour, whizzing down the modern E90. The E90 is a unique highway in that it is almost entirely composed of tunnels and bridges. The bits of road that actually touch the ground are rare indeed. This is rugged and mountainous country, stark and scenic. 

Deposited in the busy Ioannina bus station, we set off for the village of Parma, famous for the Parma Cave. The budget guesthouses were clustered around this village, so off we went. It was a short two kilometer walk, with full backpacks, and the afternoon Greek sun overhead. Have you noticed that almost everything is a 'short two kilometer walk?'

Parma Cave

Parma was empty, a tourist town without tourists. This little village is a popular destination for Greek tourists looking for a weekend getaway. The big draw is Parma Cave. The cave was discovered by a young boy looking for a safe place to hide from aerial bombing during World War II. It has since been developed into a tourist attraction. The cave is well worth a tour. Being as there were no tourists in the village, we had our own private tour at no extra cost.

After a very quiet night in Parma, and a fabulous dinner at the one Taberna open for an evening meal, we let the day draw to a close, watching the over the quiet main street from out second-storey balcony. The following morning, after touring the cave, we took a city bus into Ioannina town.

Ali Pasha, The Lion of Ioannina

Ioannina is famous for being nestled against a large lake. Steep mountainsides rise from the green waters, making for a lovely vista. Crowded against the lake shore is the Ottoman-era palace and fortress of Ali Pasha. There were several Ali Pashas, it being an title of honour, but there is only one Lion of Ioannina, and he was a certified Bad-Ass.

The Lion started his career as the leader of a band of Albanian Brigands. After battling the Ottomans, he became one of them. Apparently being a leader of brigands was a fine job qualification in the empire. He was many, many things, but weak was not one of them. Ruthless, religiously tolerant, cunning, he ruled the Sanjak of Ioannina for more than three decades. About 1820, he ran afoul of the Sultan by conspiring to kill a member of the court, a member he had strong disagreements with. The Sultan was not pleased, eventually sending troops to Ioannina with instructions to return with Ali Pasha's head.

Ali Pasha's Grave, minus Head (photo: Ferhatbingol)

Ali Pasha did his best to fight off the Sultan's invading army. He was about eighty years old by this time. Finally, his surviving loyal soldiers reduced to a small force, he was tricked into giving up his fortified palace. He removed himself to a monastery, hoping it to be a sanctuary. Such was not to be. The Sultan's forces closed in, surrounded him, and declared that he must surrender and meet his fate. He response is famous, at least in these parts: "My head will not be surrendered like the head of a slave!" With that, the Lion of Ioannina kept fighting. The Sultan's troops finally killed Ali Pasha by firing their muskets up through the floor of the room he occupied. Ali Pasha was dead at the age of eighty-two, fighting until the the end. His head was duly transported back to the Sultan in Constantinople. His body, sans head, lies in a grave in the palace compound.

The Palace Complex, Old Town Ioannina

Ioannina is a fine walking town, flat, pretty, and lively. There are a few more tourists in the town itself, but it is mostly a stop for Greek travelers. The palace and old town are clustered around the shores of the lake, as is a fine lakeside promenade. Little boats ferry folks over to an island across the lake. The grid of the new town sits between the old town and the hills that rise away from the lake.

We had a fine time exploring the place, a good, simple walkabout. There were shopping lanes to poke about in, good eateries, and a very vibrant café scene. Ioannina is home to several colleges and schools, and boasts a large population of young students. They keep the place lively.

Old Bakery

There is the usual grittiness that seems to go with larger Greek towns. Graffiti is a constant, running the gamut from political to street art. This is not some well-preserved UNESCO tourist ghetto, but rather a busy Greek town going about its business.

Ioannina Façade

There are the buildings abandoned and lifeless alongside businesses that are flourishing. The mix is a good one, a sense of the past overlaid with the modern.  

Backstreet, Ioannina

If you are looking for charming lanes devoid of traffic, wander toward the lake and disappear into the maze of the old walled city. Veer back out of the old city, and you will be engulfed in the shopping streets with their rows of competing cafés. Take your time, sit, have a coffee, watch the world walk by.

Old Façade Resurrected

Ioannina does not have any "must-see" sights. It is what it is reported to be: a busy, provincial town. Look past that, however, and I think you will find a charming city that is certainly worth an overnight stay. We enjoyed two nights here without regret. This is one of those places that offers a solid cultural view. Sunning oneself on an island beach is a fine pastime, but spending two weeks on the beach does not mean I have seen Greece. It means I have seen the beach. Ioannina is a place to mingle with locals, talk to them, and get a sense of what the country is all about.

Café Scene, Ioannina

By late afternoon we had found our café. This was one of the hipster spots, with great tunes, great coffee, and a great vibe. The locals were hanging out, greeting one another, and just generally kicking back. If I was to spend a month here, this would be my café. One of the lessons I have learned late in life is that it is very important to have a good café handy.

Speaking of islands, the next day would find us bound for Korfu, but that is the stuff of the next blog post. For this evening, it was a bus ride back to sleepy Parma, a second dinner at 'Our Joint,' and another quiet evening listening to the village folk talk away the night.