Northwest Greek Odyssey -- Igoumenitsa

Igoumenitsa Sunset

Countdowns, Giveaways, and New Novels, Oh My! Yes, like the Lions, and Tigers, and Bears, things have gotten a bit busy here in writer-land. But one most soldier on, I suppose. Either that, or find unaccompanied Literary Agents to taunt.  Ahem... Where were we? Ah, yes, on the coast of Northwest Greece.

Igoumenitsa is a busy little port town in the northwest corner of Greece. It is nestled onto a protected bay, sandwiched between the off-shore spine of Korfu, and the rise of Albanian hills to the north. If one is traveling overland in Northwest Greece, there is a good chance one will pass through this town. And, honestly, there are not many reasons to spend the night.

The Harbor at the Gloaming

Steep hills hem the town against the Aegean. The main highway, the E55, comes to an abrupt end at the ferry docks. There is no more land for a roadway, thus the reason for the town's existence. It is a port town, pure and simple. The town stretches a few kilometers south to north. The north end of town is cute and quaint; a lovely main street along an aging promenade. The south end of town consists of modern concrete buildings, and more than two kilometers of concrete on the shore side: ferry docks, loading lanes, and low-slung ferry buildings. Huge car and truck ferries leave from Igoumenitsa, bound for Italy and elsewhere. These ferries ply the Mediterranean, bound for Bari, Venice, Brindisi, Ravenna, the list goes on. It is a busy place. But we did not know that. 

Greek Salad, Of Course

We were in Igoumenitsa due to uncertainty. Every journey requires a mystery destination, an out-of-the-way and difficult to find place, the holy grail of that region. Whether it is the mythical Backwaters of Kerala, India, or the elusive border-crossing out of Palin, Cambodia, no trip is complete without a destination that is difficult, if not impossible, to find.

Zagori, that is where we wanted to go. But the buses, well, the buses that go there leave from Ioannina, maybe, shrug-shrug. Remember that guy, the Greek bus guy? So it was take a chance that afternoon, or leave early the next morning. Having already spent some time in Ioannina, we did not feel like being stuck there overnight. So why not a new town, aye? Why not a cute little port town?

Goofy Self-Portrait in Foil

So, here is where the honest disclaimer comes into play: You do not need to spend the night in Igoumenitsa. Sorry, but that's the way it is. True, the old center of town is charming. One can walk it in an hour. There are a great variety of cafés, which the residents fill on a nightly basis, or so it seems. Dinner and drinks by the water? No problem. On the plus side, lovely cafés. But then there is the other nightly show.

The other entertainment in town is the nightly ferry show, which we did not know about. We watched the show from our balcony. The ferry show begins in the evening, with hundreds of lorries stacking up at the south end of town. Mixed in with the queues of trucks, there are travelers hauling caravans, motorcyclists, bicyclists, cars with kayaks, you name it. Some sort of mysterious signal is given, which I missed, and then the games begin. Shouting cops, arm-waving ferry workers, pleading drivers, contrary queues, and everyone working at cross-purposes. It is a wildly chaotic, slow-moving train wreck. This went on for hours, just across the street from our balcony. For better or worse, I had a ring-side seat for the show, which runs well into the night. Remember the basic essentials that are always in your traveler kit? This is when the earplugs come in handy. 

A funny little town with a split-personality. In the morning we were on our way, the long stretch of the ferry complex quiet in the sunshine. Today was the day: we would find the mystery bus for Zagori. Failing that, our backup plan was to hitchhike, rent a car, or steal a mule, whatever. But that is the stuff of tomorrow.

Remember to travel often, travel well, and Ciao for Now!

Marco Etheridge is the author of two published novels, The Best Dark Rain, and Blood Rust Chains.

His third novel, a romantic thriller set in Vienna and other exotic locales, is pending publication. For more on Marco's work, go to his website at:

Marco Etheridge Fiction