Our steed of the day, the mighty Bangkok Direct.
It was a travel day, but not an "oh-my-gawd-my-aching-ass" sort of travel day. More of a jaunt as it were. The best train for us was the Direct, not to be confused with the Express or the Rapid. None of the trains are really fast, but the Direct is a little less slow. Basically, the Ordinary is as slow as it gets. Bumped onto the siding as lowest priority, it stops in the middle of nowhere as well as stopping at every hamlet with a colonial train station. The Express and Rapid are neither, cost more than the Ordinary, and stop at almost every station. Both are pretty lazy in the speed department as well. We have been unable to tell the difference between the two except a slight variation in price. The Direct is, well, not direct, but the number of stops are limited and it does move right along by Thai standards. From Surin to Ubon Ratchathani the Express is three-plus hours and by Direct it was just two.
Countryside, rice fields, more rice fields, water buffalo, villages, rice fields, big golden Buddhas, a few more rice fields, and then there was Ubon Ratchanthani, the end of the Northeastern Rail Line. Set on the Moon River in a watery landscape of sloughs and marshes, Ubon Ratchanthani serves as a transportation hub. IT is close to Laos and to Cambodia. There is also a modern history of warfare and enlightenment. In the 1960's, US forces built the massive Udon R. Airport and from same they bombed the good folks of Vietnam. During the same time period, there were Americans here in Udon R. Who were studying with Thai Buddhist monks of the Forest school. Some of these Americans returned to the USA to spread the teachings of the Forest School of Buddhism. Other newly ordained monks stayed here in the local monasteries.
The train station is a good bit out of town and would make an unpleasant and very warm walk. My One quickly spotted the Songtheuw line and we hopped the first one heading out. Pickup trucks with bench seats and an overhead sheet metal canopy, Songtheuw are the way the locals get around town. Ten baht for any run, no matter the distance. When you see someplace that looks interesting, press the red button, the bell rings, and you jump out. My One got a seat.
I stood on the platform handing off the back of the little truck.
Once across the Moon River into Ubon Ratchathani proper, I mashed the red button and we were out on the street. A short two-block walk brought us to where I thought the guesthouse was. Before we could slip out of our packs for a look at the map, an old Thai gent waved us on, pointing down the small street. Again, what else would two Farrang with pack packs be looking for.
Fierce guard dogs protected the Ratchbut 28 guesthouse.
The place was there, complete with attack dogs, and a sign with a number to call. Fortunately My Heart's Euro SIM worked and help was on the way whilst we waited on the patio out of the burning sun.
The fierce guard dogs did a great job of keeping me from getting up to any mischief.
Our 350 baht room, complete with a view of the Moon River and the cooler breeze off of it. This is much more typical of a backpacker guesthouse, something you would find in the North of Thailand or Bangkok. A very, very firm mattress with the world's smallest pillows. The mattresses get harder as one gets closer to Lao. It must have something to do with the gravitational pull of the Mekong River.
A Wat in our back yard.
A room with a view. What else does one require?
Showered and refreshed, we hung out on the terrace and soaked up the cool breeze. With the day market across the street and the river front a just below us, we were in a prime location. And noisy.
Aqua-culture along the Moon River.
Enough lounging around, time to get out for walk-about. We headed down river on the promenade. This is obviously the place to be on a Friday night. There were a series of bars and BBQ joints just setting up their riverside seating. Most everyone was gleefully ignoring the posted signs banning alcohol or smoking. Speakers were set up and one could see the beginning of a battle of the bands. When the Thai bars line up next to each other, it becomes a wattage competition to see who can drown out who's music. The resulting cacophony can be a little overwhelming.
We traipsed back into town proper and found the local food market, just getting set up. Oh-yay, Oh-yay, time for the eating to begin.
Vietnamese-style crepes stuffed with pork and vege. Rice balls in the bowl to the left.
I went for the crepe, which comes with a bowl of yummy mixed greens and sauce. Wonderful and a nice change.
My One opted for the pork dumplings topped with, ta-da! More pork.
The night came on and with it some elaborate festivities at the City Shrine. There were dancers, drummers and lots and lots of folks. We stood respectfully for the Thai National anthem, then wandered about.
For me, the highlight of the show was the dragon acrobats. Two guys in a dragon suit leaped around on the platform, doing handstands and tricks. Other dancers in goofy masks goaded the dragon on. The crowd loved it.
As we walked out of the park, we were able to witness the Night Market springing, literally, to life. Elapsed time from when the cops closed of the street to shoppers in the market was about 25 minutes. Empty street to market in less than a half-hour. In case you don't believe me.....
Here is the link to the video as the frantic market prep starts:
Here is the link to the video as the market swings into life. This was taken in the same spot as the first, about 25 minutes later:
There was more food and more market strolling, then dessert. There were a few yawns, then a few more. The day was catching up with us in the best possible way. We headed back to the guesthouse full and happy, ready to let the end of the evening and the river slip by below our terrace.
A Wat in the Night.
Another great day in the Isaan region of Thailand. Tomorrow will be a simple walk-about in Udon R. Until then, it's Ciao for Now Friends and Neighbors!
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