Ubon-a-Bon

The market was up before I was and I was up before My One began to stir.  The very early morning calm is picked apart by the putt-putt-tuk-tuk of the two-stroke delivery carts and the clatter of fish, meat and produce being unloaded at the market across the lane from our digs.  I rolled out of bed and into a pair of shorts for the brekkie run.  If you can't beat 'em, eat with 'em.

Sweet thick Lao-style coffee and egg baguettes, which I schlepped back to the terrace.

We whiled away the morning watching the Moon River carrying rafts of vegetation from the interior jungles towards the mighty Mekong, which will then ferry the leafy islands to the sea.  Cleverly waiting until the heat of the day started to build, we headed out to further explore Ubon Ratchanthani.  But first, real coffee.

In the coffee shop we were entertained by a family photo shoot of some proud young man who had apparently accomplished proud young man things.

Hot and sultry, hot and sultry, it was that sort of morning.  We wandered about for a bit until we found ourselves near the big park.  Sitting in the shade of the huge trees were two pink mini-bus things, sort of like giant golf carts with bench seats.  I remembered reading about the "Tourist Car" for Ubon, so we walked over to investigate.  Some smiles, some confusion, and then we were sitting in the second bus.  Some more pantomime led us to be seated in the first bus.  This was, indeed, the Tourist Car, but the tourists were Thai.  There was not another Farrang in sight.  

We had gotten on the Wat Bus.  Here a Wat, there a Wat, everywhere a What-Wat.  After a few years of traveling in Thailand, a Wat is just a Wat.  Yes, they are beautiful, yes, they are important cultural centers, and yes, we have seen a great many of them.  It is exactly the same with the mighty cathedrals in Yurp.  Really, after awhile, seeing the next great pile of cut stone is not the highest item on my travel agenda.  But I digress...

Off we putt-putted in the little pink Tourist Car.  Not only did we saved ourselves a lot of sweat and walking, the little car was cute and the pink uniformed volunteers were even cuter.

The little Pink Car wandered from Wat to Wat, with the volunteers nervously commenting on the passing sights.  We covered a lot of ground and saw a lot of Ubon that we would not have seen.  And then there were the Wats.  I won't bore you with too many.  The big deal festival here is a parade of giant floats with wax carvings molded over the into exotic shapes.  They are, essentially, giant candles, which are then lighted and paraded through the town.  It seems that each Wat (temple) produces theirs own candle float for the competition.  Then the city goes nuts with huge markets and festivities.

A detail from one of last years candle floats, which we found in a shed behind one of the Wats.

Rama riding the Hawk-billed Garuda.  At least I think it's Rama.  

And giant Chedi in the sun.  The hot sun.  Very hot.  No sign of Monsoon today.  Hot.  

Inside the Chedi looking up.

Eventually we jumped ship (bus?) at a nearby Wat and walked back to our digs.  Letting the heat of the day slip away after our legitimate sight-seeing, we detoured through the Wat next door on our way to get some grub at the market.

Naga guarding the river entrance to the temple at the gloaming of the day.

A wizened and kindly caretaker saw us meandering through the temple grounds and took us in tow, whether desired or not.  He demonstrated his love of the place through a detailed tour of the oldest teak building in the temple complex.  It was the original temple building, although rebuilt several times.  Teak Wats are rare and, after a day-long baking in the sun, very, very warm inside.  Sweat was running down my back in rivulets as we listened and nodded to our diminutive guide.  Eventually he freed us into the cool night air.  (He was a very, very nice man and he was very kind.  I wanted to add that so I didn't sound snarky.)

Market food followed, including a reprise of last night's crepes.  This was the newest dish, a mixed salad sort of thing over rice, including BBQ's meat slices and tiny salty shrimp eaten whole, legs and all.  

Yes, the chilies are hot.  Real damn hot.  And real damn good.

The Night Market II, the rummage sale side of the thing.  I was doing the market shuffle with My one, making sure she had a chance to see every booth and stall.  

Which way do we go, George, which way do we go?

After all of that shopping, there was too much street food to remember.  Mackerel and rice with some sort of slaw, skewers of grilled chicken, some fish dumpling thing wrapped in banana leaf, a sweet burned toast concoction and, finally, yet another brownie.  

The spicy fish dumpling things.

More calories per bite than pure butter.  The cashew brownie.

We staggered back to the digs.  The river ran by, I smoked a good cigar, and I watched the geckos hunting bugs.  

Mr. Stumpy, my favorite bug hunter.  Not long after I took this photo, he shit on me from the ceiling.  Over the years, I have experienced many new things in Thailand, but I have never been pooped on by a gecko.  I guess there is always room for new experiences.  

A great day in Ubon Ratchanthani.  We did some legitimate sight-seeing, lots of eating, and a good bit of relaxing.  Balance is important.  Tomorrow is a travel day, heading and east to end up on the Mighty Mekong.  For the moment, it is time to say Ciao for Now!