It was a hiking day, a day to get out of town and in touch with Thai natural beauty, a day to get very very sweaty. Any day that involves hiking in the jungle is a day that must start with a good breakfast. Noodle soup is the cornerstone of any nutritous brekkie. Mixing in sufficient amount of fish sauce, hot vinegar and chilies will give one a head start on the sweating that will be part of the day.
We walked to the Main Street that leads south out of town. The National Park was about fifteen kilometers south and the plan was to try to hail a Songtheuw to get us there. A few false starts and we found the proper pickup point, but no Songtheuw. Eventually a Tuk-tuk driver began negotiating with us. 400 Baht to take us one way to the park or 500 baht to take us round trip and wait on us while we hiked. We were reluctant to give up on our plan of cheap transport. While the negotiations were moving along in fits and starts, a Songtheuw approached. The Tuk-tuk driver actually hailed the Songtheuw for us an then told the driver where we wanted to go. It is almost impossible to convey what an extraordinary thing this was. Tuk-tusk drivers are a fairly mercenary bunch, taken as a whole. For example, most tuk-tuk guys will not give you directions. They will take you where you want to go and charge you for it, but there is no pay-off for them in helping. This is not true for all drivers, of course, and the further one gets out of Bangkok or Vientienne the easier it gets. But for a tuk-tuk guy to willingly give up a big fare just to help out a couple of Farrang, that is unheard of in my experience in Southeast Asia. I guess it is a fine illustration of just how friendly the Isaan folks are. A big tip o' the lid to this extraordinary gent.
The view from the open road, heading south.
We rolled along Thai highway 212, amusing the local market women who were onboard with their load of shopping. Our best info was that the ride would end at a market on 212 and we would have to hike the road a bit more than a mile to the entrance of the national park. Again, we were undone by the kindness of the Isaan folks. The driver strayed off his usual route and drove us directly to the gate of the park, charging us a measly 30 baht each, or less than a buck for a 15 kilometer ride. Try that with Uber. We paid our 200 Baht foreigner entrance fee (Thai folks pay a lot less) and began our hiking day.
The trail climbed over an open rock field punctuated with weirdly eroded formations. It was sultry and hot as we crossed the hard open ground without a hint of shade. The sweating had begun.
There was no promise of a cooling monsoon shower today, only a vibrant tropical sun and the heated rock we were walking across.
Some of the treasures to be discovered we almost trod upon. This praying mantis was enjoying its lunch without regard for us.
We continued climbing the rock slab until we were, mercifully, at the first summit. From here the trail disappeared into dense jungle under looming cliff faces. At least we were now shaded from the blaze of the sun, but we were also cut off from the breeze.
WIld orchids along the way.
We ascended through the jungle until we were under the waterfalls. Ah, the glory of a cool waterfall on a sweltering jungle hike. Here is a link to a video of a little waterfall worship:
And more waterfalls.
The trail became a series of steep and questionably sound ladders climbing up the cliff face. We emerged at the top onto yet another solid rock plateau. In a shaded niche above the falls was a shrine set on glistening tiles over which the stream was flowing before tumbling over the cliff.
The upper section of the plateau was open rock overlaid with many rivulets of water. While the stone offered solid footing, each wet section had a slippery layer of algae going across it, making the surface as slick as ice. We picked our way across the open sections, carefully avoided a fall over the cliff edge. A kilometer across the open rock and mixed scrub brought us to the view point and the way down.
High above the Isaan rice paddies.
The way down. Way down.
And how we got there. The ladders did not exactly inspire confidence.
And this was the last we saw of the trail.
Coming out below the cliff face, we ran into a large windfall of bamboo which had obliterated the trail. We found a trail, but as it turned out it was not THE trail. Thankful to be on any trail, we continued down into the farming country below the cliffs. Emerging onto a dirt scooter and tractor path, it was obvious that we had left the park. With the help of a few amused farmers, we stayed on the main path back towards the road. The walking was hot and beautiful through the the unbelievably green rice fields and copses of trees. During the rainy season, Isaan becomes a vibrant emerald green, so green it almost hurts the eyes.
A long hot mile needed to be walked down to the highway, where a Songtheuw magically materialized just as we arrived. 30 Baht later we were walking through the alley to our riverfront guesthouse, bathed in sweat and ready for showers and some time on the balcony.
Celebrating a safe return while watching the Mekong River flow by.
A fiery plate of Isaan noodles with pork finished off the day. On our way home we were blessed with an extra shower as the monsoon rains surprised us on the street, drenching us like rats before we could make it home. Yes, it is still the rainy season and one must take it as it comes.
A hard day, a wonderful day, a day of sweat and heat and waterfalls and sights. Tomorrow we will move farther north in Isaan, yet further up the Mekong and to an even smaller town. But that is the stuff of tomorrow. Until then, it is, of course, Ciao for Now!
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