Friday, October 7, 2016

Of Scooters and Waterfalls

The sun is beating down, causing us to retreat to the veranda.  Sitting under the fan and not moving at all is the best plan.  Today is the day of our party, when most of the Bunloed's friends and relations will come to help us celebrate our Union.  Tomorrow morning we will go to the temple and receive the blessings of the monks.  For now, the heat is pressing us into inactivity.  The bamboo soup is simmering on the stove and we are taking turns holding Baby Rose.  She is a little fussy in the heat, but holding her is like holding a tiny squirming furnace.  So we take it in turns.  

Before the festivities begin, I have to try to catch up the blog, for there will be no time once the Karaoke starts.  The Thai folks love them some Karaoke.  

Yesterday we ventured out on the little 125 automatic scooter.  Under-powered for two Farrang, the little beast reluctantly carried us north on Highway 212.  We were heading for a water fall.  Our directions were "About fifteen kilometers and then go right.  There should be a sign."  We found the sign and the gate and the guard.  He pondered us, the scooter, seemed to weigh the difficulty of explaining something to us in Thai, then he shrugged, smiled, and raised the gate.  Up the tiny road we motored, climbing towards the cliffs away from the Mekong.  

The ever-so-busy parking lot at the trailhead to the falls.  We suspect that the place was closed, but the guard was so surprised to see two Farrang, he figured we couldn't get up to too much mischief.

Yes, this walking trail leads to... Something.  And we promise to stay on the trail.


The trail was, thankfully, mostly shaded.  I often refer to the forests in these parts as "jungle," but that is not entirely correct.  Much of the Mekong valley is tropical scrubland, marshes, and upper forest land, depending on the elevation.  Today we were hiking through scrubland forest and marsh.

The blessing of a shaded stream on a blazing hot day.  Just wetting our toes felt delicious, but there was more to come.


We found a shady spot and dropped our shoes and day packs.  From here on up it was barefoot walking across solid rock and cool water pools.  The first of the cascades tumbled down to the creek, wending its way down from the upper rock cliffs.  


At the end of one branching of the creek was the highest waterfall, complete with a slot pool deep enough for swimming.  We did not need a formal invitation.  There are few pleasures in life as refreshing as swimming naked in a cool pool below the splashing of a waterfall.  The rock slot grew narrower as it neared the falls and far deeper.  The further we pushed into the slot, the more the current tried to push us out.  It was a fantastic sensation.  We lounged and floated, floated and lounged, letting the heat of the day wash away down the creek.  A blessing indeed, waterfall worship at its finest.  

Here is a link to the video of the falls:


The solid rock bed of the creek was pocked with deeply cut circular holes.  A small swirl of current over a bump or imperfection in the rock begins the process.  Over centuries, the solid rock is carved away to form these potholes.

A large Farrang and a tiny scooter.  Already sweaty again, it was time to head back down to the highway.

Back aboard our little steed, we wound down the little road to the bigger road.  Careening along at a whopping 45 kph, we let the faster traffic move past us.  The general rule in Thailand is that it is a good idea to avoid killing anyone, as opposed to the USA version which it to smash every Moto in sight.  We turned off of 212 onto the small road leading to Ban Khlung and the Mekong.  Village life simmered in the heat.  We stopped for lunch at a small roadside cafe'.

A new taste treat!!  Chicken Phad Thai inside a lovely omelet.  Oh yay, oh yay.  This one was a hit.

We continued on through the the village to a small road along the Mekong.  Without any real knowledge of where it might lead, we gently bounced along the dirt and gravel road, taking in the sights of the rice fields and rubber plantations.  Rubber trees are the biggest cash crop in this region.  Rice is the traditional food crop, but the attraction of a cash crop has lured many rice farmers to convert to rubber tree cultivation.  Because of this, there is a glut of raw latex and the market price has dropped by half over the last five years.  A lesson in the perils of cash crops versus subsistence crops.  

Eventually we rejoined Highway 212 and guessed at which direction we should go, not correctly as it turns out.  After a few kilometers we reversed direction and wandered back to Ban Dan Chik and thence to Ban Kham Pia.  Home again, home again, jiggety-jig.  Washing off the sweat of the day, we whiled away the rest of the afternoon by lazing about and wondering what Bunloed would cook for dinner.

Dinner was Nam Tok, or waterfall, a wonderful waterfall of pork with bitter tree beans accomapnied with sticky rice.  This was one of my best meals in Thailand so far.  An amazing repast.  Bunloed kicks some serious cooking ass.  

Lolling about after dinner, we laughed and joked and entertained Baby Rose.  The creatures of the night came out to see what we were up to.

Mr. Toad hunted the bugs on the ground.

The Tokays, or big geckos, hunted bugs on the walls.


It was a Thai Still Life to finish off the evening.  Smoke rose from the fire, wafting past the lights strung up for the party.  Darkness came on and sleepiness along with it.  Slowly, slowly, the evening drifted to a close.

And that, Friends and Neighbors, was that.  Peace reigned in the valley as a small breeze wafted away some of the heat.  The day was done and so am I.  As always my beloved fellow travelers, it is time to say Ciao for Now! 















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