The Mighty Mekong

Morning came to Ubon Ratchanthani with the promise of heat and no monsoon clouds to chase it away.  My One was still sleeping as I slipped out of the guesthouse and walked the short distance to the Moon River.  The morning light was just bringing a glow to the Wat next door.  The market across the street was already bustling but I needed to stretch my legs before breakfast.  There were a few monks sweeping up the Wat grounds and I could hear the pots banging in the monk's kitchen.

The Naga guarding the entrance to the Wat from the river walk.

I strolled slowly through the quiet of the Wat until the call of the market became too strong.  Busy shoppers were already hard at work buying up the goods for a Sunday dinner at home.  Huge Mekong catfish and carp were being cleaved into steaks, brightly coloured fruits and vegetables were piled high, and the food vendors were seeing to the needs of the hungry merchants and buyers.

A reprise of yesterday, egg Bahn Mi and thick coffee taken al fresco on the questhouse terrace.

Packed and ready to venture north, My Heart and I shouldered our packs and slogged out into the torrid heat.  The bus station in Ubon is six kilometers from the center, much to far to walk and far enough to deter any foolish thoughts of doing so.  Finding a shady spot to stand, we waited for a Songtheuw along the Main Street.  After a short time, we climbed aboard the back of one of the ramshackle pickup truck "buses" and were grinding along the sultry city streets.  Ten Baht will get one anywhere in the city.  That's about thirty cents.  Pretty cool!

The Number 3 Songtheuw and a samlor, the bicycle rickshaws that are still very much in use in this slow-paced part of Thailand.  The samlor "drivers" are the poorest of the transport workers, often sleeping on the street with their rickety contraptions.

A typical Thai open-air bus station.

We arrived at the bus station, found the correct stall, and bought our tickets on the "big" bus.  The "small buses" look like a better way to go, but there are usually 13 seats and 15 people with luggage.  Luggage here is often defined as a 20 kilo rice sack filled with who-knows-what.  It makes for a tight ride.  The mini-vans are affectionately know as Vomit-Vans.  We opted for the big bus.

The sun was beating down on our metal steed as we rolled north towards Mukdahan.  Everyone drew the curtains against the blaze, so there was little to see.  The bus was packed and the aircon barely working.  Between the rocking of the bus and the press and heat of the interior, it was almost impossible to remain conscious.  Mercifully, the ride took a half-hour less than we were told.  Less than three hours of sweaty bus time and we were in Mukdahan.  

It was far too hot and far too long of a walk to consider anything but a tuk-tuk.  This was our first Tuk-tuk of the trip, and it was just as silly a means of transport as it always it.  Still, the drivers here are much less aggressive that those of Bangkok or, much worse, Vientienne in Lao.  After a brief and unsuccessful bargaining session, we agreed on a pretty fair price and were soon heading for the riverfront.  Arriving at our first pick for a hotel, we were greeted by the Thai-speaking staff.  The room price seemed steep at 750 Baht per night, but when we saw the room, we understood why and quickly agreed to stay.  It was a huge corner room with a covered wrap around balcony and an amazing view of the Mekong River with the shores of Lao on the far side.    By the way, 750 baht is about $23.  Since our last place was $11 per night, we decided we could afford this splurge.  It is so easy to fall into the habit of cheap travel and then balk at a price that we would laugh at in Europe of the USA.  Cheap Farrangs!  

Back on the Mekong, which always feels like home.

Ah, the Mighty Mekong.  Mukdahan, Thailand sits on the banks of this wonderful River, one of my favorite in the entire world.  I have been privileged enough to spend time on the Mekong in four of the six countries it flows through.  Some years ago I spent two days traveling down the Mekong by longboat.  I never get tired of seeing the changes that the seasons bring to the river.  Swollen now in the rainy seaon, it is mighty indeed.  The twelfth longest river in the world and the seventh longest in Asia (depending on who is doing the measuring), the Mekong always calls to me, and I heed the call whenever I can.  Strolling along the Mukdahan promenade on the way to find some street food felt fantastic.

Tonight, the BBQ'd duck called to us, served from a busy stand in the Night Market.  We sat at a little metal table, sharing it with a local man.  The duck was tender and savory, the stewed eggs sweet and spicy, and there were just enough greens to make the plate seem healthy.  

The Dude Abides, and yours truly eats.  We all have our lots in life.

The back view of a street food stall, complete with roaming shoppers.

Second course, grilled squid.  Here's a tip, the stuffed squid are really good, but one is enough for two people.  Really.

Pick your squid skewers and onto the hot grill it goes.  The charcoal brazier is about the same temperature as the surface of the sun.  I have no idea how these folks work a grill all evening when it is already steaming hot just standing still.

There is no point in having a spectacular balcony on the river if one isn't going to enjoy the pleasures in life.  My choice is a fine cigar while watching the geckos hunt bugs.  By the way, those lights in the photo are the far shore of the Mekong, The People's Republic of Laos.

Another fine day of travel even deeper into the laid-back region of Isaan.  Wherever you are in this fine world, Friends and Neighbors, I bid you Ciao for Now!