Crossroads

The port of Nong Khai and, across the Mekong River, the shores of Lao.

Nong Khai sits at the intersection of two countries and multiple cultures.  The first Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge was built here, making Nong Khai a gateway to Vientienne, the capital of Lao.  Now it is a busy crossroads for commerce, immigration and tourism.  Because Nong Khai is an important Buddhist site, there are many Thai, Vietnamese and Laotian tourists here, along with the infrastructure to deal with them.  There are also more than a few Ex-pat Farrang here as well, more (it seems) then when I was here five years ago.  Weird little Farrang bars dot certain streets, complete with Thai bar girls who are dwarfed by the large Ex-pat clientele.  Farrang travelers are fewer here this time of year, but as the cool season comes on, Nong Khai will be flooded with backpackers traveling to or from Lao.  In addition to all of this, crossing the bridge to Vientienne is the route to getting a visa extension for Thailand.

In essence, this ain't Isaan.  Folks are friendly enough here, but a Farrang is just a Farrang and there are plenty enough as it is.  While the rest of Isaan seems so laid-back as to be motionless, Nong Khai has a frenetic energy that is palpable, especially when the sun goes down and the heat of the day is mixed with a breeze off of the Mekong.

Lots of Vietnamese tourists means Vietnamese Coffee.  Da Nang for me, thanks!

Waiting for the coffee to drippeth.  

Super strong coffee and some crazy frozen coconut concoction called "Bingsu."  

Being a tourist is an Asian tourist town is easy and fun.  My One and I have both been here before, so we felt no obligation to see anything "cultural" or do anything "important."  Basically, the day consisted of sitting out the really hot hours, going walk-about, eating and drinking.  When there are far more Asian tourists in a town like Nong Khao or That Phenom, we are able to sort of disappear into the background, as much as tall Westerners can.

The heat of the day baking the river promenade.  The big statue of the kilometer marker is one of the icons of Nong Khai, kilometer 0 for Hwy 212, 211, and several other main roads.  

The busy Port building near our guesthouse.  All manner of goods pass through here, bound for Lao via river boat.  And every box, every bundle, every sack gets carried, by hand, down the long stairs and across the floating piers.

The porters work their asses off in the heat of the day.

Out and about after dark in search of dinner, I was struck again by the energy of even a modest sized Asian city.  No photograph or description adequately captures the noise and lights and sights and smells that turn a Thai street into a circus of food and entertainment.  It is something that simply has to be experienced.  Even the modest sized Nong Khai explodes after the sun sets.  It is as if all of the energy that has been stored up by napping away the heat of the day bursts out all over the sidewalks. The food stalls appear out of the concrete, as if by magic.  Rows of scooters are milling about in front of the stalls, buying up the yummy treats.  Heat rolls off of hot oil woks and glowing braziers as food is fried, boiled, grilled and steamed.  The food stalls are set up on the sidewalk along with the rickety tables and little plastic stools.  Because the sidewalks are blocked and the parking strip is full of scooters, those on foot have to walk in the street, dodging the slow parades of Tuk-Tuks, scooters and tricked out Toyota trucks.

The night energy starting to build.

Running the gauntlet of the food stalls.

Sometimes sitting on the little plastic stools is not what a hungry traveler is desirous of.  Never fear, there are restaurants aplenty, packed with Thai families and hungry Asian tourists.  D&D is just that sort of place, complete with the pink uniformed waitresses that fill your glass with ice as quickly as stealthy ninjas.  

Jade Noodles as part of the first course.

Along with Morning Glory greens swimming in garlic.  Lots of garlic.

The main course of duck with mushrooms and...

Stir fried Sea Bass in a Panang-style curry that was packing serious heat.

The aftermath.  So, yes, we went a little overboard.  It was great.  

The floating tourist restaurants below our guesthouse.

Our lazy day in Nong Khai concluded on the veranda of our guesthouse.  It was strange sitting amongst a group of fellow travelers again.  Mut Mee guesthouse is a traveler's hub, an old school guesthouse where information is exchanged, clothes washed, and plans made.  In past years I have stayed at many a guesthouse such as this.  But now, after weeks of being the only Farrang in sight, the old Mut Mee feels a bit cramped.  Our route has bisected the tourist trail, but it is not joining the tourist trail.  Tomorrow we will venture on to Sangkhom, further up the Mekong River.  It will be back to small towns and rural countryside.  

Until then, I bid you Ciao for Now!