Sometimes a day just turns into a shambles. It happens, even in The Land of Smiles. In most cases I do it to myself and today was no exception. What follows is an account of how a day can go to hell.
The day started well enough, what with getting our rental scooter and heading out of New Sukhothai for a good brekkie. We found the recommended noodle joint, complete with a fresh coffee stand. It is almost impossible to find the two together. After a lovely bowl of Kuay Tieu Sukhothai, the local dish, there was even a little coconut and jelly dessert thingy. Life was good. We were on our way to Ramkamhaeug National park for a steep jungle hike on a hot Thai day. What could go wrong?
First of all, on of the members of the team could forget his shoulder bag at the noodle joint (mistake number one) and then not remember it until, say, about ten kilometers later when the team stopped for gas. Pissed off at myself (mistake number two) I piloted the scooter back to the noodle cafe' where, of course, the smiling waitress had the bag waiting on us. Take a cue, Mr. Farrang, smile about the whole thing. But no, I muttered about it and cursed myself for a fool. That sort of thing does not lend itself to pleasing the other members of the team.
After a thirty-five kilometer ride, plus the ten-odd backtracking for the bag, we managed to find the the park entrance. We had stocked up on water, but I was busy being miffed and did not pay sufficient attention to stocking up on snacks. This would prove to be mistake number three.
Into the jungle heat.
The climb to the top of the mountain is called out as a four hour hike. It is steep and rugged. When I read about walking and Farrang, I usually read "Four hours for slow Farrang who are not used to hiking." Mistake number four. We started the hike under the dense jungle canopy. The trail climbed like a goat path. The rate of elevation gain was about 350 meters up for every 1000 meters in. Not too shabby. Things got hot and sweaty real damn quick.
Wild orchids along the way. Relax, breath, climb. Try to let go of the bad Juju. Fail. Try again.
Mr. Many-Legs crossing the path. He does not sweat, nor does he sweat it. Learn. Or not.
Already high above the plain and many upward steps to go.
The hike was hard, grueling at times, and could have been just a challenging day. I had, however, put a grim stamp on the morning that would dog us for the rest of the way. My One was less than pleased with me over the short rations and my general attitude. Adding in the blazing heat and bugs, things did not get a lot easier.
Trying to put a happy face on it.
Two hours into the climb, my shirt was literally clinging to my body with the sweat running out of me. We were pounding water and it just poured out of us. Off came the shirt and the bugs be damned. Quitters we are not. My One kept a steady pace up the mountain and I settled into the ascent. One foot in front of the other and all of that.
Here is a video of my silly sweaty self climbing the trail. I misspoke in the video. The rate of climb was about 1000 feet per kilometer. Mixed measuring systems. Sorry.
Find the cave, find the Buddha. In Thailand, the two seem inseparable.
At three and a half hours in, we were still a good way from the top, even with steady climbing. My bad for underestimating the trail. We had set a turn around time and meant to stick to it. Passing through a series of magical bamboo groves, we were mesmerized by the eerie "thocking" sound of the bamboo popping in the heat. It was as if we had been transported to a Kurosawa movie. Thock, pause, Thock! The tree frogs screamed and the cicadas buzzed. It was a weird symphony of sound.
Bamboo clumps hug the hot mountainside.
Here is a link to a video and audio of the bamboo and bug symphony:
A hot and silly Farrang clowning around with a big bamboo hat.
As high as we were going to get today, this was our turn-around spot.
Played out and tired, legs revolting, we lunched on our meager supplies while the bugs tried to lunch on us. It was heading toward later afternoon and we needed to get back down. It was one of those days when the fun just sort of eluded us. I have to take most of the blame for this one. My One kept up a dogged pace on a brutal climb in tropical heat. A little too much heat, not enough food, a frustrating start, all of these things conspired to sour the day. So, one tough day in thirty. I guess I should be happy with a batting average like that, but in truth I was disappointed in myself. So, lesson learned, time to turn ourselves downhill.
Another creature just being a creature. Think less, be more. Okay, I will try.
The descent was tough and hot as our legs started to protest. Still, downhill is faster than uphill. Eventually we were back at the park headquarters. After some serious dousing and rinsing in the nice big bathroom sinks, we mounted our trusty rental scooter for the trek back into Sukhothai. Words cannot describe how wonderful the scooter breeze felt as the air rushed over and past us.
The long shadows of the afternoon.
A long scooter ride, food stalls, showers, and a better evening. Not a great evening, but better. I proved to myself that left to my own devices I can screw up even a beautiful day in Thailand. Again, lessons still to be learned, wood to chop, water to carry. When it is time to chop and carry, chop and carry. When it is time to think, think. Try to know the difference. That was the lesson given to me today. I hope I make some progress with it.
There is travel yet to do, things to enjoy, food to eat and transport to take. Tomorrow we journey to Lopburi, Monkey-Town!! As for today, I am glad to end it and to say to you: "Ciao for Now!"
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