Towards Sillliness

 

The strange "Frog Tuk-tuk" style of Sukhothai, Pitsuanlok and Ayuttaya.

It was time to leave Sukhothai, with all of it's cultural marvels, and move to the silliness of Lopburi, better known as Monkey Town.  Lopburi is close to Bangkok, a natural distance to break up the longish trek from Sukhothai all the way to the Big Mango.  Plus, we had one more night, that precious last night.

The hand painted signs meant to discourage walkers.  I suspect the Tuk-tuk cabal.

It was a blazing hot day on the plains of Sukhothai.  We bade farewell to our best bungalow of the trip and trundled the backpacks towards the secret trail to the bus terminal.  Hot, really hot. 

The secret trail.  The hot sun has baked away the mud (Duc) and the swimming pool is on the left.

The bus lottery yielded up a rattly old local for the run back to Pitsuanlok.  The driver was bent on something important and wasted no time.  We rumbled and careened the 60 kilometers to the bigger city and our return to the Thailand Railways.  From the bus terminal in Pitsuanlok it was a tuk-tuk to the train station.

The Gold "VIP" tuk-tuk of Pitsuanlok.

We were back on the Thailand train lines and soon to close a very large loop between the Northeastern Line and the Northern Line.  On our way into Isaan we traveled the entire length of the Northeastern Line to the terminus at Ubon Ratchasima.  From there we looped along the Mekong and across the north of Isaan to emerge on the north-central plains of the country.  Today we would head south on the Northern Line to intersect the Northeastern Line near Ayuttaya.  

Second class to Lopburi.  There is no telling what sort of train carriage a traveler will draw.  This was second class, with huge leg room and no aircon.  A steel box rolling across an open plain in 95 degree heat gets toasty, open windows or not.

Folks often ask "What does it cost to travel in Thailand?"  Okay, here's a primer.  

Walk to the station:         0 Baht

Bus to Pitsuanlok:         40 Baht

Lunch:                           40 Baht

Train to Lopburi:        163 Baht

Assorted snacks:           20 Baht

Total:                           263 Baht  (about $ 8.21 per person)

 

We rolled across the open rice fields of the central plain, the rice bowl of Thailand.  The sun baked the car into a somnambulant haze.   The vendors worked the aisle,  rocking along with their buckets of food and drink.  The watery world outside the carriage windows slid by.  Welcome to a train ride in Thailand.  Local folks in small boats fished on the shallow lakes that would soon become sun-drenched fields.  We pass the time wondering where all of the fishes go when the dry season commences.  

The narrow-gauge cars stop here, stop there.  The trains in Thailand look like some throwback from a bygone era because, for the most part, they are.  To step onto a second- or third-class carriage here is to to back in time three decades or more.  It is a romantic way to travel, a slow way, and not the most comfortable.  It can be hot and noisy.  Black smuts from the diesel engines make their way through the open windows and land on the floor, the seats, or on your white shirt.  Still, I love the trains here.  The Thai trains are cheap, reasonably efficient and fun.  They are not usually on time, but they are not usually too late either.  The Thai countryside, seen from the train windows, is far preferable to the clutter along the Thai roadways.  

The inside of our carriage as the evening comes on.

Night fell as we approached Lopburi.  The train threads its way along the edge of the Old Town.  The three towers of the ancient Hindu Wat, icon of the town, passed by our window as the train rumbled to a halt.  I was back in Monkey Town.

The New City of Lopburi, five kilometers from the Old City, is not anything to brag about.  The Old City, however, is a quirky and strange place.  Built around ancient ruins, the Old City is known for one thing:  Monkeys.  The furry creatures roam the city at will, occupying ledges on buildings, traipsing across the electrical wires, and generally running amok.  At the Wat, they are fed twice a day.  The relationship between the town folks and the simians is one of that towards pernicious pets.   Honored at the temple, they are tolerated in the rest of town, where they get up to all sorts of mischief.  

The night was hot and sultry as we walked out of the terminal and into the bustle of the night market.  Threading our way through the stalls and past the occasional monkey or two, we made our way to the Nett Hotel, a budget place of dodgy quality.  Lopburi is not known for its luxuriant digs.  It is a gritty town at best.  A long day's travel done, we showered and hit the streets for a quick bite and walk-about as the night market wound down.  Back at the hotel, I smoked a cigar while the monkeys sat on the balcony and hoped for a handout.  Every window and balcony in the Old City is equipped with monkey screens to prevent the thieving little furry folks from pilfering whatever edibles or shiny objects may be inside.

We had come to within two hours of Bangkok, near enough to feel the end of this particular journey, but far enough away to savor one more night.  Six years ago, on my second trip to Thailand, I stopped in this very same town.  Returning to Lopburi felt as if I were closing another loop, one that I cannot aptly describe.  Tomorrow it is a morning walk-about of the ruins, enjoying the monkey business, and then the last train to the Big Mango.   Until then, i bid you "Ciao for Now!"