We slipped past the army of miniatures guarding the local Wat. It was another sultry morning on the Mekong River as we bid adieu to the Mut Mee guesthouse. While we had enjoyed our time amongst the hustle and bustle of Nong Khai, it was time to head for the quieter paths and smaller towns. After a brief but friendly negotiation with the Tuk-tuk driver, we were threading our way through the busy and smoky traffic of Nong Khai. While not a long walk, the bus station is far enough away from Mut Mee to turn a traveler into a sweaty rag. Not the best way to start a long slow bus ride.
The little green bus.
Dropping further down the hierarchy of buses, we were heading to Sangkhom aboard one of the little locals. While the open windows and perpetually open door are a plus, having ones knees pressed against the seat back in front of one is not. Westerners take heed. I am working on a formula to make sense of the fare system here in Thailand. Tuk-Tuks and taxis aside, it seems that 40 baht will buy one at lest an hour of travel time. Thus a 120 baht fare is a sure sign that a sturdy traveler will be aboard the conveyance for at least three hours. Here is Southeast Asia travel is measured in time, not in kilometers. Sangkhom, for example, is less than ninety kilometers from Nong Khai. A short trip, no? No. Remember the 120 baht fare? It's going to take three hours, Bucko. Forget about any preconceived notions of European or US travel speeds. Today we got our money's worth.
The Thai ladies and their shopping. The talk was boisterous and non-stop.
Anyone's home is a bus stop. Ladies pass packages and parcels down to those departing.
The wheels on the bus go 'round and 'round. The door stays open all of the time. Mind the gap!
We snaked our way through the heavy traffic of Nong Khai, past the truck traffic of the Friendship Bridge, finally turning off to the west along the Mekong River. There were views across the Mekong to the huge Lao city of Vientiene. The road grew small and picturesque. Besides rice, the ubiquitous food crop of SE Asia, there were fields of pineapple, fish ponds, and sugarcane fields. Roadside stands sold all manner of fish and fruit, including the incredibly pungent (Aromatic? Stinky?) durian fruit. Given the stately pace of the bus, there was ample time to take in the sights.
The Mighty Mekong on our right. We have traveled a great length along this river as we logged in most of the kilometers of Hwy 212, which ends in Nong Khai. Today we were rolling down Hwy 211.
Finally, bye-bye to the little green bus. My aching butt.
Just when our asses had reached critical seat time and the plastic seats had turned our backs into running currents of sweat, we inched into the small riverside town of Sangkhom. One advantage of the local bus is that the driver knows every business in every town. He happily dropped us at Bouy's Guesthouse. A mercifully short walk to the river and we were welcomed to our new digs. Under the blazing sun, we crossed the rickety wooden bridge to the crazy leaning bungalow, our oasis for the next few days. We were now far off the tourist trail, again the only Farrang travelers in sight.
Structurally sound? I will let you be the judge. It bears the weight of two Farrang.
Our home on the Mekong. It does list a bit to port, but the views are amazing.
The rear of the bungalow has a bit of a Hobbit or Elf house look.
The view from the deck is fantastic. That far shore is Laos. The Leaning Bungalow is perched on a promontory between a small tributary stream and the Mekong. The river is falling quickly as the rainy season draws to a close. From the mud line in the creek, it is easy to see how only a month ago the chocolaty water was almost lapping at the planks of the crazy footbridge.
Islands are already appearing in the Mekong as the river level falls. The local folks are busy planting vegetable gardens right down to the waterline of the river. Soon, what looks like sandy beach will be verdant with greens, beans and onions. While the banks resemble a sandy beach, the "sand" is actually rich silty soil, rejuvenated each year by the flood stages of the rainy season. By February, this river vista will look more like a huge grassy valley crisis-crossed with smaller streams and creeks. The eternal cycle of the Mekong continues as long as China never dams the river. What a tragedy that would be, the death of another wild river.
It is carnival time in Sangkhom. The kids are out of school and the dragon boat races will be held this weekend. The presence of two Farrang walking through the kiddie carnival caused a bit of a stir, but all accompanied by smiles. We ducked into a tent cafe' to get some grub and dodge a sudden monsoon storm. The rainy season is ticking to a close, but the monsoon clouds are still on the move.
A tricked out hot-rod two-stroke scooter. Bling, bling, bling.
We wandered the short main street of Sangkhom, shopping the market and admiring the local color. The end of our route brought us to the Wensday fresh market where we stocked up on fried chicken, sweet roti and pineapple. Trundling our treasures back to the deck of the leaning bungalow, we had a open air feast as the gloaming of the day began.
Tired but happy travelers, we let the geckos entertain us. Our porch light brought the bugs and the bugs drew the geckos. They darted up and down the pillars, across the table, and even inside the lamp, snatching bugs and smacking their little lizards lips. The night was deep and black as we slipped under the mosquito netting spread above the traditional rock-hard Thai mattress. Another blessed day drawn to a close. And there, beloved Friends and Neighbors, I will leave you. As always, be kind, be well, be happy, and travel often. Ciao for Now!
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