The Bagan Archeological Zone is spread out over a mostly flat plain that is over one hundred square kilometers in size. Outside of the ruined walls of Old Bagan, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is far too bit to explore on foot. Thus we found ourselves aboard what the locals call an E-Bike. It is a funny little means of transportation, a melding of E-Bike and scooter. They are for rent all over Nyaung U, costing 10,000 kyat per day. That works out to about $6.50, give or take.
The mission for today: Explore the far-flung temples and pagodas that rise like jagged teeth above the green flatlands. The area south and east of the walled city of Old Bagan is criss-crossed with earthen roads, farm lanes, and goat paths. The morning sky was hot and bright, devoid of the last of the rainy season clouds. We were about to put the little E-Scooter through its paces.
Piloting our electric steed through Farrang-Town, we emerged onto one of the main East-West roads. My goal was to get us out into the open country to the south of Old Bagan. I had a marginally vague idea of where we were going. It did not really matter, as the pagodas rise above the plain wherever one looks. It is simple thing, really. Choose one of the looming pagodas, then steer towards it. Veering off the pavement, we were soon bouncing down a rough earthen road, weaving around the many potholes filled by recent rains. I did the best I could to miss the bumps and spare My One a jostling, all the while getting the feel for my strange little electric moto.
Our first stop was a busy one, a lively temple crowded with local folks. There was an avenue of vendor stalls lining the entrance way, selling everything from snacks to religious icons. It was a festive scene. I find a certain small pleasure in being a traveler amongst local tourists. This is their culture, their pilgrimage, and their holiday. It is a privilege to be allowed into their world, and I enjoy it very much.
In a previous blog post, I mentioned the Gu-style temples. These temples are large squares or rectangles, usually topped with a pagoda spire. What is unique about the Gu-temples is that the interiors are accessible. Most of the stupas are solid structures built around an inner chamber. This chamber is usually the resting place of sacred relics, such as a few precious hairs of the Buddha. These reliquaries are not open to public viewing. The Gu-style temples, however, offer a unique view of the interior architecture employed by ancient builders.
The temples are blocks, and the inner passages conform to the outer shape. Thus we found ourselves in cool, shadowed passageways, with stone arches high above us in the darkness. Light flows in through open arches from the outside world. Other things flow in as well. Bats often make their homes in the nooks and crannies of the stone ceilings. One can hear their tiny squeaks while exploring the labyrinthine corridors.
Let your eyes adjust to the dim light, walk slowly, and you will be rewarded with glimpses of what these walls looked like a thousand years ago. There are bits of fresco still adhering to the stone, painted images of the Buddha. Pictographic panels, worn with time and moisture, tell the fragmented tale of the Buddha's life and teachings.
The temple walls were finished with a coating of limestone stucco. The stucco was then painted in myriad fresco designs. Most of the stucco coating is long gone, eroded away by the ravages of time, weather, earthquakes, and the touch of human hands. Yet fragments remain, transporting the viewer back through the centuries.
The Gu-style temples, like the chedi and pagodas, were built from stone blocks, often overlaid with brick. The brick was used to to build up the shape of the temple walls, and to fill the spaces between the sections of carved stone façade. The brick was then clad with limestone or sandstone. Most of this cladding has fallen away. It is particularly vulnerable to the many earthquakes that rattle this region. The bits of cladding that remain are stained a dark grey-brown. They still bear the mark of the maker's hands. The intricate geometric patterns and designs must have been an amazing sight when these temples were gleaming white above the green fields.
A Gu-style temple glowing in the sun in an awesome sight. The stone and brick climbs level upon level, and all of it topped with a crumbling pagoda spire. Multiply that vision by a hundred, two hundred, with temples and pagoda stretching as far as the eye can see. That is the Bagan plain on a brilliantly hot Myanmar morning.
Truth be told, I was having as much fun riding the little moto as I was visiting the ruins. There was a wide swath of coutryside to explore. I gave up on caring where we were, piloting the scooter down smaller and rougher paths. Sliding down one very muddy section, I had to daub a foot to keep us upright. We managed to fishtail through, but not without the reward of one very mud-coated foot. That was worth a good laugh. By the time we got to the next temple, the mud had dried to a gummy cast. Fortunately, there was a pilgrim's foot washing station, which I took full advantage of.
Bagan is all about seeing temples, yet there are only so many temples that one can see before fatigue sets in. To utter the refrain on touring Thailand: "Here a Wat, there a Wat, everywhere a Wat-Wat." It is no different in Europe. Medieval cathedrals are incredible structures, yet even the most dedicated traveler can only take in so many cathedrals in one journey. The massive buttresses and glorious stained-glass was meant to awe and humble the poor peons, and that purpose was well-served. I am awed and humbled as well, but when temple overload kicks in, well, it's good to have another source of fun.
Today, the fun was supplied by the little scooter. With our own transport, regardless of how silly, we were able to wander at will. When we got tired of busy temples, we sought out the smaller pagodas. There are many, many temples that sit alone and unvisited. They are scattered everywhere. Pull off a goat path, park the scooter, and you have your own private ruin. You could sit on the edge of the stone foundation and have a picnic. Or you could take a break, find a shady spot, and smoke a cheroot in peace.
 |
| Lunchtime!! |
Today, New Bagan is a prosperous little town which derives a great deal of its income from the tourist trade. It is particularly favored by the tour bus groups. There is a lively main street, chock full of cafés and tea-shops. We had no trouble finding one of each; first for a good lunch, then for tea and some leisure time.
With the afternoon sun becoming fierce, the interior passageways of the Gu-temples were a welcome refuge. I had recovered my Temple-Fu and was honestly having a blast. We had given up all notions of destination, choosing our path by which dirt lane looked the most interesting. There was a good bit of getting lost, getting found, and giggling about it all. Putzing around on the silly little scooter was amazingly fun. We dawdled about from temple to pagoda, retreating into the shadows for a respite from the sun. Cooled off, we would saddle up once more and venture out into the baking heat.
This was my favorite Buddha of the day, perhaps my favorite in Myanmar. There was something in the carved expression that held my eye. I loved the rose-coloured stain over the stone, and the unique form and style.
The late afternoon was upon us, and night comes quickly here. It was time to head for the barn. We navigated a circuitous route across the southern Bagan plain, with piles of stone on either side. There were famous temples, their dirt parking lots full of vehicles, and many smaller pagodas standing lonely and quiet. We passed them all by, enjoying the ride through the countryside, and the cooling of the day.
With a vague notion of direction, I aimed the scooter up a goat path leading out through the fields. Before taking the plunge, I checked with My One. She gave me the "Sure, what the hell" shrug, and off we went.
Packed earth gave way to rough gravel, then rocky patches, and even a stream crossing. We were doing it, motocrossing over the wild trails of Myanmar! This was, of course, a silly notion. No matter where I go in Southeast Asia, no matter how rough the path, or how bad-ass a moto jockey I think I am, I have to remember one simple fact. Some eighty-year-old Burmese granny has just ridden a 125 automatic scooter over this very stretch of path, and she was probably hauling 100 kilos of rice, a grand-kid or two, and a pig.
The path opened into a small lane, and the small lane into a road. Then we were out on the main road to town, traffic whizzing by us in the gloaming. A quick turn into Farrang-Town brought us back to the scooter rental joint. We bid our trusty steed adieu and walked back to our side of town.
 | ||
| Our Little Street... |
Our little alley was still there, as were the two old guys perched on their stools. We climbed to our guesthouse and a very welcome cool shower. The night fell quickly, and hunger came hard on night's heels.
Nights in Bagan are sultry. The mention I made of the day cooling off is a relative term. It is cooler than the hammer and anvil of the midday sun, that is true, but the nights are still plenty warm. Yet that did not stop us from ordering our own personal charcoal brazier, delivered directly to our table. The thing was radiating heat like the ovens of hell. Brilliant planning, that.
The glowing ceramic inferno notwithstanding, the hot-pot was a fantastic meal. Our BBQ joint was packed with folks, both local and Farrang. There was much eating, much drinking, and a good time seemed to be had by all.
Our time in Bagan had run to its end. Despite a few bouts of temple fatigue, I really enjoyed this part of our Myanmar adventure. There was a good mix of sights to see, tempered with great food and lots of interaction with local folks. Tomorrow we would set out on the road to Mandalay.
You can check it out here:
"The Broken Vow of Ramón Torres" at Inlandia Journal
Or perhaps
You can check out books, blog posts, book reviews, or even get a free book. Just look for the big button that says "FREE BOOK." It's kind of hard to miss. Happy reading!!
No comments:
Post a Comment