Gandhi's Bike

Trusty Rusty X

I've had more than my share of really crappy rental bikes and suffered ass abuse as a result.  The Trusty Rusties have hauled me around in countries across SE Asia.  This new implement of butt torture was originally Gandh's bike in the 1930's.  How it got to Sigiriya, Sri Lanka, I have no clue. 

The Plan:  Explore the back roads around Sigiriya by bicycle.  

The Plan in 6th Century Sinhala.  Not really, just one treasure we discovered far off the beaten path. 

First we retraced our walking path around  Sigiriya Rock, then headed out on small lanes to explore the tanks, ancient reservoirs scattered amongst the jungle and paddy fields. 

We quickly started finding archeological sites that weren't on the tourist route and were too far off the beaten for walkers. 

Here are three videos of our riding day:

Setting out on Gandhi's Bike......  

http://youtu.be/nS2-h4t88-s

Temples in the woods......

http://youtu.be/zn-6BL3IoWQ

Gandhi's Bike and Dream Roads.......

http://youtu.be/GVDCdlflPRY

A Buddha in the shade of Cobras at an empty temple.  Just one of many stops on the bicycle tour. 

We rolled down small lanes, dirt roads and even a tank dike, which threatened to shake Gandhi's bike to pieces.  

P-Rock from the dike trail.  This is the spot where the photo in the Sigiriya Rock was taken. We did not notice until we saw one of the fancy $30 ticket stubs at our guesthouse.  

I don't know what "Roarming" is, but it doesn't sound good if elephants have access to it. 

We rode until we were sweaty messes, regrouped and relaxed at the guesthouse, then set out again. Despite protests from the lower regions, we did another loop to the East, circumnavigating the tank we had walked to the prior evening.   We rolled past farms, waved to kids, dodged cows and finally drifted back towards town as evening came on.  We knew we were getting close when we encountered the tourist elephant coming from the village with three tourists clinging to the platform atop the poor elephant.   

Having reached terminal ass-chap for the day, we dropped off the bikes and walked home.  

Sigiriya has been one of the highlights of this Sri Lankan journey and we will both miss it.  We have loved being back out in the countryside and the quiet evenings sitting out on our veranda with our adopted dog. 

Tomorrow it is off to Anuradhapura and the Big Ruins.  Think Sri Lankan Ankor Wat. 

Walking the Tanks

We had walked and climbed and scrambled and sweat rivers, but showered and fed, we were ready for more walk-about. The quiet lane in front of our guesthouse beckoned and the afternoon clouds cooled the day. 

Sometimes a simple walk is the greatest way to travel.  We ambled past homes on the single lane road.  Concrete yielded to paving stones and then to packed earth as green space between houses increased. 

We greeted all that we met, people, dogs and cows. The dogs mostly ignored us, the cows lumbered aside and the people grinned and Hallooed us at each yard.  

We left the houses behind and walked the lane through open fields.  At a crossroads a tank came into view, one of the ancient reservoirs still in use today. 

Looming on the horizon behind the tank was Sigiriya Rock. The surface of the tank was matted with lotus and other aquatic flora.  Every other plant clump sported a small heron, Asian diver, or small wading bird.  Snow White egrets glowed in the gloaming and smaller songbirds and kingfishers darted in amongst the brush. 

All was peace. Darkness was coming on and it comes quick here in the tropics. We retraced our steps, Hallooed the same kids and stopped at the guesthouse before heading off to dinner. 

Khottu and deviled chicken at the end of the day. 

Tomorrow, exploring by Trusty Rusty 

Sri Lankan Mobile Treats

The Bakery Three-wheeler. 

An odd bit of Sri Lankan culture is the Treat Tuk-Tuk.  Mornings and evenings (sometimes VERY morning) the bakery Tuk-Tuk plies the streets, country or city, preceded by a horrible tinny version of "It's a Small World Afterall".  If I'm lyin' I'm dyin'.   

Onboard are white bread, rolls and crazy weird baked desserts. I finally had to run out and stop one. Two sweet rolls and a cake thingy for 60 Rupees.    Cool!!

Here's the video:

http://youtu.be/dzAs8aWMN1E

It's a great country!!

A Take of Two Rocks

Pidurangala Rock on the left and its show-off cousin, Lion Rock, on the right. 

Sigiriya is famous for Lion Rock, as the locals call it, or Sigiriya Rock as the books and signs call it.  It was a fortress for a short-lived ancient kingdom.  The fortress was built by a younger king who attained power by killing his father. Hence the paranoia and tall rock fortress. 

Tour buses invade this quiet village, disgorging the tour groups at the main entrance.  The fee is a stiff $35 US per person and includes the lower grounds, water features, museum and the opportunity to climb the ladders and stairs to the top of the rock. 

Set off to the North of Sigiriya is Pidurangala Rock, which sports a small mention in Lonely Planet and not much more. It is a three kilometer walk from town and the entrance fee is about $3.50 US per person.  There aren't any ladders or tour buses and it's mostly pretty lonely there.  Perfect.  

We wandered past the water features outside the main park, our road circumnavigating the walled ramparts.  It was hot and bright, another glorious day in the rainy season.  Walking was a sweaty business but we were well stocked with snacks and water.  It was a complete joy to  be on foot in the countryside away from traffic and exhaust fumes.  

If the urge to bathe crocodiles comes upon you, well, just don't, K?

We took to the shade of the rampart wall, using it for a sidewalk.  As we all know, only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go about In the noonday sun. 

We found the temple that marks the start of the climb up P-Rock.  We shook off a Ferguson who tried to convince us we would lose our way, die slowly and horribly, and remain forever to haunt the rock.  Free of his goodly advice, we disappeared into the shadows of rock and jungle, clambering upwards through thick air, crumbling wet stairs and clefts through huge rock faces. 

The route led under great rock chunks and over ancient steps. 

We passed the ruins of meditation cells. 

And a reclining Buddha whose plaster guiding was failing, showing the brick structure underneath. 

We stopped for a break and found we had a hitch-hiker. 

A bit of sticky rock scrambling and our sweaty climb was over.  We were on the summit of P-Rock, looking across at her glamorous cousin.  We could see and hear the tiny tourists tramping up the metal stairs and ladders.  Our rock summit had about eight of us all told.  It was as if we were viewing the Disney version while occupying the real thing. 

After spending time wandering the summit and enjoying the relative solitude, any desire to join the hordes on Sigiriya was gone. 

Here is the view from our rock:  

http://youtu.be/tl1y5MidQUY

A huge hornets nest on the way down. 

Even the mosses are impossible colors. 

All creatures great and small, even in the puddles. 

We walked the long way back, tired and sweaty but very happy.  Showers and food revive almost anyone. There would be more exploring in the late afternoon but now it was time to sit out the heat of the day. 

Nathan's Pals.

Here is a shout out post to my Brother Nathan.  Since he is a fan of all things Waspy and Stingy, I am calling this find the "Nathan Hornet Home". 

Have a look:

http://youtu.be/U1HhMqcF_n8

Into the Ancient Cities

Rocks and lizards, lizards and rocks. 

We had made our way to Damburra, well north of Kandy and near the center of Sri Lanka.  Back down in the lowlands, it was hot and sticky. We stashed our bags, bought our tickets, and headed up the many, many stairs to the caves tucked high in the rock promontory overhead. 

What do you find in cave temples?  Buddhas. 

And more Buddhas. 

The word cave brings to mind a cool and damp place. In Sri Lanka that would be half right.  They are damp.  Warm and damp.  And close.  Warm and damp and close.  Imagine air that you cut into bites and chew on rather than breathe.

An oasis from the heat. 

Five caves, several hundred Buddhas and a history that goes back millennia. The Sri Lankan Kings placed Buddha images here to make merit, hoping to move forward in the cycle of rebirth.  The practice continued for centuries. 

We descended the rock, were chased out of our first lunch spot by marauding monkeys, and found ourselves in a Tuk-Tuk to Darumma, a kilometer North.  Lonely Planet gives D-Town a pass due it's busy traffic but I found it quieter and a lot more sane than Kandy.  We dug Kandy, but travelers need to know that it's a frenetic place. 

Stocked up on cash from the ATM and cold drinks, we caught a nice local bus to the village of Sigiriya.  Our bus karma was back and all was well. Ten klicks off the main road, we disembarked into a great little village scene, sweet air, green space and a very laid back vibe. 

Our guesthouse was right where it should be but the proprietor had given away our reservation. We had gotten a mixed feeling as we walked up to the place so the loss was small. We were escorted next door to a beautiful little two room place set back on a quiet lane. Same price and twice as nice.  The Traveler Gods provide yet again. 

A home cooked dinner!!

We had combined a tough transit day with a major site day, not the easiest thing to do. 

Settling into our new digs, we were happy with our new base for the next few days. Tomorrow: A Tale of Two Rocks.  

Goodbye Kandy Town

Hoppers!   Stat!!

We had been on our feet for hours and needed nourishment.  After the botanical gardens it was time for hoppers and roti at a shop so local there wasn't even an English sign.  We threw caution to the wind a few days ago and began drinking the table water rather than bottled water. So far, so good and a minimized plastic trail. 

The lonely garrison cemetery. 

Our last town walk was to the small English garrison cemetery located behind the Temple of the Tooth.  The tenants of this place died far from home and mostly young. Elephants, snake venom, cholera and malaria all dealt their cards here and won.  Our young host told us we were the fourth visitors of the day.  This lonely place stays lonely. 

The sun never set on the British Empire but it did set for its citizens far and wide. 

It was time to head for home and the chores of packing for the next day's transit. We wound up the hill to St. Bridget's, thankful that the Sunday evening traffic wasn't as oppressive as usual. On the way we stopped to watch a pickup football game. The goalie asked me if I wanted to join them but I was knackered and begged off.  

Tired and happy, we sorted our gear, had a smoke and some reading time, and listened to the rain pour down.   Peace reigned as well.   

It's morning and the view from the Tuk-Tuk.  

We were off through horrendous traffic to the Goodshed Bus Station and thence to Damurra, the gateway to the Ancient Cities region of Sri Lanka.  But first we had to claw our way out of Kandy.  No small feat. 

Not moving, but lots of exhaust to breathe. 

This was a tough transit day. The bus was packed and the Bus Monkey over-charged us, a first in this usually very fair country. It was hot and sticky and the traffic was abysmal.  Almost all of our bus rides have been charming if not downright fun, but this one sucked. 

Here are a few videos to give you an idea.  First the Tuk-Tuk, then the bus, then a secret bonus.  

http://youtu.be/zRlP3_HIMEQ

http://youtu.be/_yqUXK-KBWo

http://youtu.be/OQYHXwLnLdc

We were happy to leave the bus behind when we arrived at the entrance to the Cave Temple at Damburra.  The sun was baking and the air was heavy and moist but anything was better than our steel box.  

The Hill Country behind us, we were entering the Ancient Cities to get our Indiana Jones on.