A Take of Two Rocks

Pidurangala Rock on the left and its show-off cousin, Lion Rock, on the right. 

Sigiriya is famous for Lion Rock, as the locals call it, or Sigiriya Rock as the books and signs call it.  It was a fortress for a short-lived ancient kingdom.  The fortress was built by a younger king who attained power by killing his father. Hence the paranoia and tall rock fortress. 

Tour buses invade this quiet village, disgorging the tour groups at the main entrance.  The fee is a stiff $35 US per person and includes the lower grounds, water features, museum and the opportunity to climb the ladders and stairs to the top of the rock. 

Set off to the North of Sigiriya is Pidurangala Rock, which sports a small mention in Lonely Planet and not much more. It is a three kilometer walk from town and the entrance fee is about $3.50 US per person.  There aren't any ladders or tour buses and it's mostly pretty lonely there.  Perfect.  

We wandered past the water features outside the main park, our road circumnavigating the walled ramparts.  It was hot and bright, another glorious day in the rainy season.  Walking was a sweaty business but we were well stocked with snacks and water.  It was a complete joy to  be on foot in the countryside away from traffic and exhaust fumes.  

If the urge to bathe crocodiles comes upon you, well, just don't, K?

We took to the shade of the rampart wall, using it for a sidewalk.  As we all know, only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go about In the noonday sun. 

We found the temple that marks the start of the climb up P-Rock.  We shook off a Ferguson who tried to convince us we would lose our way, die slowly and horribly, and remain forever to haunt the rock.  Free of his goodly advice, we disappeared into the shadows of rock and jungle, clambering upwards through thick air, crumbling wet stairs and clefts through huge rock faces. 

The route led under great rock chunks and over ancient steps. 

We passed the ruins of meditation cells. 

And a reclining Buddha whose plaster guiding was failing, showing the brick structure underneath. 

We stopped for a break and found we had a hitch-hiker. 

A bit of sticky rock scrambling and our sweaty climb was over.  We were on the summit of P-Rock, looking across at her glamorous cousin.  We could see and hear the tiny tourists tramping up the metal stairs and ladders.  Our rock summit had about eight of us all told.  It was as if we were viewing the Disney version while occupying the real thing. 

After spending time wandering the summit and enjoying the relative solitude, any desire to join the hordes on Sigiriya was gone. 

Here is the view from our rock:  

http://youtu.be/tl1y5MidQUY

A huge hornets nest on the way down. 

Even the mosses are impossible colors. 

All creatures great and small, even in the puddles. 

We walked the long way back, tired and sweaty but very happy.  Showers and food revive almost anyone. There would be more exploring in the late afternoon but now it was time to sit out the heat of the day.