Rocks and lizards, lizards and rocks.
We had made our way to Damburra, well north of Kandy and near the center of Sri Lanka. Back down in the lowlands, it was hot and sticky. We stashed our bags, bought our tickets, and headed up the many, many stairs to the caves tucked high in the rock promontory overhead.
The word cave brings to mind a cool and damp place. In Sri Lanka that would be half right. They are damp. Warm and damp. And close. Warm and damp and close. Imagine air that you cut into bites and chew on rather than breathe.
Five caves, several hundred Buddhas and a history that goes back millennia. The Sri Lankan Kings placed Buddha images here to make merit, hoping to move forward in the cycle of rebirth. The practice continued for centuries.
We descended the rock, were chased out of our first lunch spot by marauding monkeys, and found ourselves in a Tuk-Tuk to Darumma, a kilometer North. Lonely Planet gives D-Town a pass due it's busy traffic but I found it quieter and a lot more sane than Kandy. We dug Kandy, but travelers need to know that it's a frenetic place.
Stocked up on cash from the ATM and cold drinks, we caught a nice local bus to the village of Sigiriya. Our bus karma was back and all was well. Ten klicks off the main road, we disembarked into a great little village scene, sweet air, green space and a very laid back vibe.
Our guesthouse was right where it should be but the proprietor had given away our reservation. We had gotten a mixed feeling as we walked up to the place so the loss was small. We were escorted next door to a beautiful little two room place set back on a quiet lane. Same price and twice as nice. The Traveler Gods provide yet again.
We had combined a tough transit day with a major site day, not the easiest thing to do.
Settling into our new digs, we were happy with our new base for the next few days. Tomorrow: A Tale of Two Rocks.
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