Head south out of Salerno and things start slowing down. Scattered across the fertile coastal plain you will see signs for shops selling mozzarella di bufala, the mozzarella of the water buffalo. The flat land continues as the train rolls across the fields to Paestum, with its Greek ruins dating back to 650 BC. Beyond Paestum is the sleepy little beach town of Agropoli, the last train stop along the coast before the tracks veer inland to the next group of mountains that rear up along the coast of the Mediterranean. This is the Cilento Coast, an even sleepier section of southern Italy that may become the next big tourist area. Our destination was San Marco, a small village with no beach to speak of, only a small fishing harbor where the catch of the day is available off the back of a boat.
The harbor of San Marco, complete with the harbor-side Spa resort which contained the handful of tourists in the town, all of whom seemed to be Deutsch.
From Minori, our Amalfi coast hideout, it was a local public bus (3.60 Euro for two) into the Salerno center and a short walk to the now familiar train station. The train tickets from Salerno to Agropoli, about an hour south, were spit out of the automated billette for less than 4 Euro each. Reinforced with and espresso and cappuccino, we found ourselves rolling across the aforementioned fields.
We alit from our train in very, very sleepy Agropoli and tried for the bus stop. We had a few conversations with local folks, all in Italian, which meant that they were a bit one-sided. With help from our friends, we found the bus stop. Several bus drivers confirmed that this was the correct stop and also that they were not driving the correct bus. Total wait time was about an hour. We were finally rolling up and over the twisty coastal road, past Santa Maria, Castelabatta perched on its hilltop, and finally the little crossroads above San Marco. The only possible street into San Marco proper led directly to the front door of our hotel, situated on the tiny piazza.
The harbor of San Marco, complete with the harbor-side Spa resort which contained the handful of tourists in the town, all of whom seemed to be Deutsch.
From Minori, our Amalfi coast hideout, it was a local public bus (3.60 Euro for two) into the Salerno center and a short walk to the now familiar train station. The train tickets from Salerno to Agropoli, about an hour south, were spit out of the automated billette for less than 4 Euro each. Reinforced with and espresso and cappuccino, we found ourselves rolling across the aforementioned fields.
We alit from our train in very, very sleepy Agropoli and tried for the bus stop. We had a few conversations with local folks, all in Italian, which meant that they were a bit one-sided. With help from our friends, we found the bus stop. Several bus drivers confirmed that this was the correct stop and also that they were not driving the correct bus. Total wait time was about an hour. We were finally rolling up and over the twisty coastal road, past Santa Maria, Castelabatta perched on its hilltop, and finally the little crossroads above San Marco. The only possible street into San Marco proper led directly to the front door of our hotel, situated on the tiny piazza.
Hotel Antoinetta, our new digs.
A room with a view, in this case of the quiet courtyards and the sea. Quiet does not even begin to describe San Marco, a town where almost everything closes between 1:30 in the afternoon until about 4:30 or 5 in the evening. Here, one has to hunt for espresso or a place to eat. During the week the town slumbers and tourists are a true rarity. On the weekends, things liven up a bit, but it's mostly locals. Our hosts told us that the Italians tourists don't arrive until early June. Arriving in Cilento feels like the stepping through the doorway to the real south of Italy.
We settled into our new digs, wandered the town, and discovered the kiosk bar tucked down by the harbor. This is the owner's beautiful little Fiat, the cutest car imaginable.
There is nothing to do in San Marco, nothing to see, and not much to hear. It is quiet, sleepy and wonderful. Tomorrow we hike the Cilento coast south from San Marco.
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